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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Duhart-Milon is recalcitrant on the nose, refusing to give much away in terms of aromas. Loamy, peaty scents emerge with time amongst the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, fresh in the mouth with good salinity. There is something estuarine about this Pauillac that lends it personality and its grip…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pontet Canet has a precocious bouquet with blueberry, cassis, crushed violet and pastille-like fruit, perhaps more delineation than its peers. There’s a nice focus here. The palate is well balanced with finely-knit tannins, a sorbet-like freshness, lightly spiced with hints of bacon fat emanating from that notorious warm summer. With a brightness on…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1990 Léoville-Poyferré is a wine that I have drunk on several occasions over the years. This ex-château example has a slightly rustic nose, maybe with a touch of VA, though the aromatics are stuffed with so much fruit that you cannot help but fall for its charms. Touches of mint and melted dark chocolate…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Deep red-ruby. Remarkably complex aromas of chestnuts, earth, truffle, shoe polish and a cigar-box nuance. Suave, intensely flavored fruit; a very youthful, sharply defined and thoroughly delicious wine of great finesse. Finishes firm and long. Our favorite Poyferré since the ’83. The three Léovilles are stunning—and completely different in style—in 1990. 91(+?), use more clarity…

Penfolds Collection 2023 (Jul 2023)

The 2020 Shiraz St Henri lives up to its traditional claret billing, reserved, subtle and built to last. Excellent color to begin before delivering a refined mix of coca, blackberry and black olive tapenade with a subtle dusting of old spice. It’s mid-weight, firm and stylish, with more gravel and graphite flavors starting to emerge….

Penfolds Collection 2023 (Jul 2023)

The richly endowed 2021 Shiraz Bin 798 RWT delivers in spades with intense and well-defined blackberry, tempered chocolate, black olive and bay leaf aromas. A dense, drying palate follows. Grippy tannins provide a muscular feel through to a heavy set finish. It’s a little adolescent right now and needs time to settle.