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Chablis 2013 and 2012 (Jul 2014)

Pale color. Reticent aromas of citrus peel, white stone fruits and oyster shell, plus a suggestion of oak spice (the Raveneaus used more recent oak barrels for this wine and their Montee de Tonnerre in 2012, according to Bernard). Sappy and alive in the mouth, with terrific mineral lift to the flavors of white peach,…

The Good, Bad and Ugly: Burgundy 2010, 2003 & 2004 (Jun 2020)

The 2010 Meursault Village from Coche-Dury has a fresh, tight bouquet at first, gradually unfurling to reveal shucked oyster shell and sea spray notes that gain intensity over the course of 15-20 minutes. The palate strikes a sublime balance with a domaine-typical judicious line of acidity that keeps this Meursault on its tiptoes. Toward the…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(from Vireuils-Dessous): Aromas of orange oil and wet stone. Juicy on entry, then rather strict in the middle, showing noteworthy power and tension, not to mention terrific precision of stone fruit and citrus flavors. Not yet expansive; in fact, this village wine is the closest 2010 to austere today. Owing to the low volume of…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(an assemblage of parcels; 25 hectoliters per hectare from purchased 100%-millerandé grapes): Pale color. Very ripe aromas of orange zest and musky lees. Chewy, dense and saline, conveying very good cut but coming across as a bit youthfully clenched in the middle palate. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins. Raphael Coche told me that…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(U.S. cuvée, mostly Narvaux): An aroma of orange zest is lifted by fresh minerality. At once delicate and intense, offering juicy, sharply delineated citrus and stone flavors and superb inner-mouth tension for village wine. Finish with terrific echoing length and energy.

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(half from Pernand and half from Aloxe; the 2013 was entirely from Aloxe-Corton as the Pernand fruit was killed by hail; very late malo here): Pale yellow. High-pitched aromas of lime, minerals, wild herbs and lavender. Dense, thick and classically dry, showing a slightly buttery quality in the middle palate and a distinctly tannic impression…