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Napa Valley’s Thrilling 2018s & 2019s, Parts 1 & 2 (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Cabernet Shiraz Bin 600 is the entry-level wine in this new range from Penfolds. Bold and racy to the core, the 2018 possesses terrific richness and tons of allure. Blackberry jam, dried flowers, espresso, licorice and leather build in a sumptuous, opulent wine that will be very easy to drink upon release. The…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 1990 Léoville-Poyferré is a wine that I have drunk on several occasions over the years. This ex-château example has a slightly rustic nose, maybe with a touch of VA, though the aromatics are stuffed with so much fruit that you cannot help but fall for its charms. Touches of mint and melted dark chocolate…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Deep red-ruby. Remarkably complex aromas of chestnuts, earth, truffle, shoe polish and a cigar-box nuance. Suave, intensely flavored fruit; a very youthful, sharply defined and thoroughly delicious wine of great finesse. Finishes firm and long. Our favorite Poyferré since the ’83. The three Léovilles are stunning—and completely different in style—in 1990. 91(+?), use more clarity…

Two Cape Crusaders: Alheit & Mullineux (Jun 2019)

The 2016 Cartology comprises some lots from Paardeberg that were picked early to maintain natural acidity. It perhaps does not quite deliver the same quality as the 2015. This bottle replicated the one I picked off the list at Hide restaurant a few weeks earlier. It has a more mineral-driven bouquet than the 2015: crushed…

2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)

The 2016 Domaine de l’A is plush and inviting. Dark cherry, chocolate and spice are pushed forward, and an aromatic lift from the Cabernet Franc appears on the midpalate and finish. This is an especially dense, rich wine for the appellation. Time should help the tannins settle down a bit. There is certainly plenty to…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(50% vendange entier; from 50-year-old vines):Good dark red. Totally different from the La Justice, conveying lovely _calcaire energy to its pungent raspberry and licorice aromas. Intensely flavored and vibrant, showing good inner-mouth chalky tension to its berry and menthol flavors. A cool, high-altitude style with an intriguing peppery salinity. Really vibrates in the middle palate…