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Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Brilliant ruby. A hugely perfumed bouquet evokes spice-accented red and dark berry preserves, potpourri, pipe tobacco and vanilla, and violet and mineral accents emerge as the wine stretches out. Palate-staining blackberry, cherry-vanilla, cassis, fruitcake, mocha and candied licorice flavors show superb depth and clarity while hints of floral pastilles and Moroccan spices add complexity. Gains…

The 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons at Age Ten (May 2022)

The 2011 Opus One is an elegant, lithe wine. Floral and savory aromatics lend freshness to this understated, classy Opus One. Sweet red berry fruit, dried herbs, blood orange and cinnamon lend notable complexity from start to finish. I imagine the 2011 will drink beautifully for another 10-15 years, maybe more. The 2011 has softened…

California’s North Coast (May 2014)

(14% alcohol): Deep ruby-red. Rather cool aromas of plum syrup, cocoa powder, licorice and fresh herbs. Spicier and leaner than the young 2012, with a strong impression of acidity and an herbal element giving a tart quality to the blackberry, graphite and leather flavors. Finishes brisk but a bit sour, with some spiky acidity and…

Chianti Classico 2013 & 2012: The Luck of the Draw (Sep 2015)

Isole e Olena’s 2006 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, a wine that was originally produced for home consumption, turned out to be the drawing board for the Gran Selezione. Cherry jam, earthiness, spices, mocha, sweet herbs and French oak all meld together in the glass. The 2006 is marked by a slightly oxidative note in its…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

Tasted numerous times, the 1985 Château Margaux probably doesn’t deserve to follow the 1982 and 1983 and should be considered in its own right. Sensual and pure on the nose, this offers gorgeous, pixelated red fruit blossoming in the glass with inkwell and violet hints. The palate is lace-like, refined and embroidered with a very…