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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Clerc Milon has a clean and pure bouquet: perfumed, rose-petal tinged blackberry and raspberry fruit intermixed with sage, sandalwood and a hint of the estuary (mudflats and kelp). The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, well judged acidity, good structure and with plenty of tobacco and forest floor notes on the finish. There…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Château Margaux performed far better at this horizontal than at Farr's blind tasting a few days later. It has a beguiling bouquet, highly perfumed with crushed violets infusing the blackberry and crushed strawberry scented, hints of pencil box and cedar emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Château Margaux has a fleshy, almost animally bouquet with roasted chestnuts and ash infusing the red fruit, a touch of wild mint and garrigues in the background. This feels more forward than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip, a fine bead of acidity, fresh and fleshy with a smorgasbord of…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Saturated ruby-red. Deep aromas of blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate, complicated by nuances of loam and coffee extract. Dense, thick and sweet, but with harmonious acidity giving shape and lift to the pungent cassis, spice and tobacco flavors. Youthfully chewy wine with terrific underlying structure and a very long, sappy finish featuring broad tannins and…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(90% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot, 1.5% cabernet franc and 1.5% petit verdot; 71IPT; from a yield of 39 hectoliters per hectare; 13.5% alcohol; a roughly 38% selection) Good, full, dark ruby-red. Aromatic nose offers red fruits, sweet spices, dried bay leaf, soy sauce and an intense saline note. Large-scaled and powerful, with a distinctly salty,…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Medium red. Smoky red fruits, graphite and pepper on the complex nose. Superripe, plump and sweet, with lovely balancing acidity for a wine this high in alcohol. This has real depth and chocolatey sweetness. Very long, ripely tannic finish builds slowly and lingers long. Distinctive, outstanding Chateauneuf du Pape.