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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne 1er Cru comes from just under a single hectare of vines next to Blagny. It has quite a stern, austere bouquet at the moment, a little overshadowed by the Puligny Village. The palate is well balanced with light citrus lemon, white peach and lime notes on the entry, moderate weight…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Pale yellow. Aromas of stone fruits, apple, clove and flowers. Gentle, ripe and sweet, but with good inner-mouth tension to the flavors of peach and flowers. Already an appealing wine; in fact, I’d enjoy this in its youth. Very smooth on the back end. A delicious bottle, but I find it more evolved than the…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(a 71/29 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; aging in 80% new oak) Dark ruby. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, blackberry and cedar display more obvious ripe fruit than usual. A true Pauillac on the palate, with great power and precision to its black fruit, cedar, and balsamic underbrush flavors. Finishes dense and long, with slightly…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2008 Pichon-Baron has a much better bouquet than the 2007 (as you would expect), replete with blackberry, blueberry, minerals and graphite that are all very well defined and focused. The oak here is superbly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, and full of tension and energy. It builds nicely in the mouth,…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright ruby-red. Black cherry, leather and strong graphite minerality on the nose. Silky, sweet and suave, with dark fruit flavors lifted by a violet element and given grip and definition by a strong mineral spine. Wonderfully deep, ripe Pauillac with strong early sexy appeal. Finishes very bright and long, with serious but sweet tannins. Deceptively…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1986 Lynch-Bages is a vintage that I have not encountered for some time. Deep in hue, it has an attractive nose with blackberry, melted asphalt, mint and a hint of gravel in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins considering the vintage. It’s powerful but has the elegance that Jean-Michel Cazes made…