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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 La Dame de Montrose is broody and backward on the nose, just a touch of reduction that soon blows off, yet the predominantly black fruit remains tight, fleeting hints of bayleaf and black tea surfacing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, quite compact in style but rather linear and missing…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Opaque ruby-purple; this really stains the glass. Intense herbal, cola and coffee notes keep the blackcurrant aroma in check, but I find this nose ultimately lacks grace. Straightforward and austere, with blackberry, cedar and herbal flavors displaying good length. Finishes with a nice peppery kick but this Pauillac currently…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Duhart-Milon has an intense but tightly coiled nose of black fruit laced with cedar and mint. I would have liked to see a little more precision. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and very well judged acidity. There is an appealing sense of symmetry here with fine precision and tension on the…

Champagne: So Much More Than a Celebration Wine (Oct 2012)

The 1996 Brut Millesime shows why this vintage is so highly regarded. Everything is in the right place. Rich, voluptuous, yet also structured, the 1996 impresses for its superb overall balance. There is lovely complexity in the glass, but none of the aggression found in some wines. A soft, gracious finish laced with a totally…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Complex nose melds nutmeg, smoke, toffee, white flowers and a gamey nuance. Big, rich, ripe and dense but without any excess weight. Intriguing flavors of acacia and clover honey, apple and spice. The wine’s honeyed aspect is leavened by bright acids, leaving the wine light on its feet. Dense, chewy Champagne, with a long, stony,…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Dark red. Understated aromas of dried strawberry, redcurrant and garrigue complicated by a whiff of black tea. A fairly restrained midweight, atypical in this vintage, with dried red berry and mocha flavors. Finishes focused and taut, with dusty tannins and hints of red plum and licorice. Those who fear the 2003 bogeyman can safely give…