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The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Glass-staining ruby. Displays expansive aromas of dark fruit liqueur, incense, violet and spicecake, along with hints of cola and cracked pepper that build with air. Fleshy and seamless on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors that are brightened by a smoky mineral nuance. Supple and appealingly sweet on an…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonerre 1er Cru has a lightly perfumed, smoky nose with white peach and gunflint scents, all well defined and focused. There is just a little SO2 to contend with. The palate is medium-bodied with a reduced entry. A suppressed and slightly bitter Montée de Tonnerre that feels bitter on the…

Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

I debated whether or not to include the 2010 Barolo Riserva Monfortino in this tasting. Conventional wisdom says it is way too young, especially from magnum. You know what? I hate conventional wisdom. One of the undeniable truisms is that Monfortino is more enjoyable young now than it was twenty years ago. As for the…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2007 Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé is creamy, ample and also light on its feet. Seemingly light in its first impression, the 2007 opens up beautifully on the mid-palate and finish, where it shows terrific density as well as breadth. Sweet dried cherry, crushed flowers, mint and spice linger on the racy, nuanced finish….

Australia Rediscovers Its Mojo (Mar 2016)

(raised in new American oak hogsheads for 17 months): Deep ruby. Fragrant aromas of spice- and smoke-accented dark berries and cherry pit. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering subtly sweet bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors with hints of vanilla and mocha. Fine-grained tannins give structure to the long, penetrating finish, which leaves toasty…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

Healthy bright red. Reticent scents of pomegranate, cranberry, minerals and spices display lovely subtle floral lift. Supple, broad and fresh but perhaps a bit youthfully sullen today, not currently showing the energy or cut of the Vosne-Romanée. But this wine boasts solid concentration and length, finishing with chewy tannins. The Drouhins blended a bit of…