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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(12.8% alcohol; 54 h/h): Amber-tinged red; based on other bottles I have tried, the color of this particular bottle seems slightly more evolved than usual. Penetrating aromas of strawberry jam, raspberry, red cherry, orange peel, flowers and minerals. Enters bright, dense and linear, with very pure flavors of red cherry, citrus, minerals, marzipan and subtle…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have not drunk for a number of years, so this was a pertinent reminder of its pulchritude. It has a flat-out gorgeous bouquet with ebullient red fruit, warm bricks (terracotta), hints of liquorice and strawberry jam. It’s the kind of bouquet that you could bathe in….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Saturated deep red, with a hint of development at the rim. Roasted nose dominated by toffee and tobacco. Wonderfully silky but without quite the exotic ripeness of the ’90. Still, this offers uncanny retention of primary fruit. Expands inexorably on the finish and goes on and on. A wonderful bottle that still improving. (The bottle…

Domaine Armand Rousseau: Chambertin 1988 – 2002 (Aug 2017)

The 1998 Chambertin is one of the real surprises in this tasting. From a vintage that never got much of a look, Rousseau’s Chambertin is a pure and total delight. It is not the most complex wine in the vertical, nor is it the most pedigreed, but it is absolutely exquisite, as all of its…

The Wine Was Chambertin: Rousseau 1919-2017 (Jun 2022)

The 1998 Chambertin Grand Cru has a leafier bouquet than the 1996 compared alongside, undergrowth and cracked black pepper, hints of peppermint, even a touch of liquorice. It does not quite have the breeding of the aforementioned 1996. The palate is smooth on the entry, fleshy with moderate depth. Mellow, cohesive, lightly spiced, surprising richness…

Sicily: The Island Nation (Jun 2021)

As the 2018 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo blows off a bit of youthful reduction, an inviting bouquet forms, mixing violets and roses with hints of white pepper and dusty strawberry. This is seamlessly soft and polished with medium weight, ushering in floral-tinged red and hints of blue fruit which give way to sweet herbal notes….