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New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

A wine of substance and depth, the 2017 Giusto di Notri is terrific. In 2017, the Giusto has a bit less opulence than normal (typical of wines of the coast in this vintage) and yet that also gives it more immediacy. A rush of sweet red/purplish berry fruit, cinnamon and spice builds as the 2017…

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again, Part 2 (Sep 2014)

Gagliardo’s 2006 Barolo Riserva Preve is heavy, oxidized and tannic, with little in the way of appeal or charm. Unfortunately there is no upside from holding bottles further.

Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

The 2016 Perlato del Bosco, 100% Sangiovese, is plump, juicy and forward, all qualities that are typical of Sangioveses from the southern part of Maremma, and the Suvereto in particular. Varietal red Sangiovese fruit is nicely amped up in this generous, inviting wine. A touch of new oak frames the finish nicely.

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

San Guido’s 2018 Guidalberto is soft, open-knit and inviting. Sweet dark cherry, cinnamon, licorice and new leather fill out the layers in an undeniably attractive Guidalberto that will drink beautifully upon release. Finesse and elegance are the signatures. The 2018 is a terrific choice for drinking now, while some of the more powerful vintages of…

1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Medium-deep red. Less forthcoming but nuanced aromas of leather, pepper, black raspberry and brown spices. Fat but unforthcoming in the mouth; more closed than Rostaing’s ’96 Viaillère. The pepper and leather flavors are complicated by notes of licorice and fresh blood. Strong acidity. This may well merit a 90-point score with three of four years…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(a 50/50 blend of grenache and mourvedre): Dark ruby. Aromas of cherry, black raspberry and spicecake, with a sexy floral quality that gains power in the glass. Rich and fleshy but surprisingly lively, offering juicy dark fruit flavors and a hint of candied flowers. Closes on a spicy note, with very good clarity, cling and…