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Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2009 Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is remarkably polished and balanced throughout, with plenty of vintage 2009 radiance. Apricot pit, smoke, peach and spice overtones take shape in a striking Champagne. Although quite open and expressive today, the 2009 is also holding back a considerable amount of pure, unbridled power as well as potential. Ripe…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright ruby-red. Moderately ripe but aromatic nose of dark cherry and flowers. Supple on entry, then fairly round in the middle and not a bit overextracted. There’s an attractive chewiness to the dark cherry flavor, and the wine’s texture supports its firm tannins. A bit herbal but persistent on the end.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1984 Lafite-Rothschild comes from an off vintage that occasionally springs a surprise… but not this time. It feels fatigued and musty on the nose, presenting pungent tomato vine aromas and a touch of licorice. The palate is better, with dry tannins and vestiges of black fruit and pencil lead, yet it fades dramatically on…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2020)

Bright ruby to the rim. Slightly wild scents of mountain blackberry and blueberry, licorice, minerals, crushed rock, violet and wildflowers. Fine-grained, dense and utterly seamless but powerful on entry, with a hint of almost port-like ripeness but also outstanding sappy energy to the juicy black fruit, floral, mineral and licorice flavors. As much savory as…

Napa Valley Trilogy: 2014, 2015 & 2016 (Dec 2016)

The 2010 Promontory is rich, powerful and intense, with a core of inner sweetness that is compelling. Today the 2010 is quite exotic in its aromatics, but is less available and forthcoming on the palate. I would prefer to cellar it for a few more years.

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Scarecrow is stunning. Powerful and intense, but with more detail than it has shown in the past, the 2015 is positively dazzling. Super-ripe red cherry, pomegranate, mint, blood orange and exotic spice infuse this deep, resonant Cabernet Sauvignon. Over the years, winemaker Celia Welch has dialed back the oak by giving the wine…