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Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2013)

Inky purple. Intensely perfumed aromas of cassis, blueberry, violet and fruitcake, with smoke and Indian spice notes adding complexity. Sweet and penetrating, offering an array of dark fruit and floral flavors that are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity. Dusty tannins come on late and are no match for this wine’s vibrant, deeply pitched fruit,…

Sonoma’s Stellar 2016s (Apr 2018)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota Vineyard is laced with a host of mineral and soil-driven elements that add considerable nuance to the dark, plush fruit. Smoke, graphite, gravel, incense, blackberry jam and menthol give the 2015 its layered, beautifully expressive personality. I would prefer to give the 2015 a few years in bottle to…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(from Luchets and en la Barre): Pale, bright yellow. Stone fruits and a honeyed nuance on the inviting nose. Concentrated, ripe and dry, conveying a musky complexity to the flavors of peach, pear and minerals. Finishes with excellent energy and a positive phenolic edge. (Burgundy lovers who routinely snap up the Coche-Dury Bourgogne Blanc when…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Boyd-Cantenac feels a little muddle on the nose compared to its peers, although it improves with aeration to reveal lovely raspberry, cedar and tea leaf aromas. The more you nose this wine, the more you like it. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a rather incongruous minty note on the entry. It…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Full, dark red. Deep, slightly oaky aromas of black fruits, wild herbs and delicate spices could use a bit more verve. Clean and bright, with a minty, somewhat austere quality to the black plum and raspberry flavors. Finishes pure and long, with big, chewy tannins that need time to resolve fully. But I was left…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2002 Dom Pérignon P2 is wonderfully open in its aromatics, but a bit less giving on the palate, especially next to the regular release. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and white pepper open up first, followed by hints of apricot, honey, chamomile and light tropical notes. Interestingly, the P2 is quite a bit less…