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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Palmer was the first vintage when Thomas Duroux introduced wooden foudres. Around 60 hectoliters of the blend was used in the following vintage. It has a very elegant bouquet, a Palmer content to cruise in fourth gear, blackberry and boysenberry fruit, touches of clove and pressed flowers emerging with time, this is a…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Palmer is even more impressive from bottle than it was from barrel, and that is saying something. Rich, exotic and beautifully layered, Palmer is a real head-turner in 2018. Inky dark fruit, chocolate, licorice, espresso and sweet floral notes build over time, but it is the wine's stunning depth and textural voluptuousness that…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Palmer is a legend in the making. I had an inkling out of barrel, but such was its intensity that I wanted to assess it in bottle before I felt confident in saying so, because this could have gone either way. It storms from the glass with black fruit and floral scents, crushed…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Haut-Brion is shaping up to be one of the wines of the year. Substance, depth and textural intensity elevate Haut-Brion into the realm of the sublime in 2020. All the elements are so wonderfully balanced. Inky dark fruit, gravel, lavender, violet and dark spice build as the 2020 gradually opens with some aeration….

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Haut-Brion has a smorgasbord of red and black fruit on the nose, Indian ink and pressed violets, touches of undergrowth (morels?) emerging with time in the glass. There is just a note of reduction here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fresh and saline, with hints of black olive and white pepper….

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Haut-Brion was picked September 7–29. It has a more opulent, more precocious bouquet compared directly with its neighbor across the road, resplendent with layers of black cherry, wild strawberry, black olives and a touch of inkwell. Perhaps it displays slightly less mineralité compared to La Mission Haut-Brion? The palate is medium-bodied with pliant…