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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Gold-tinged color. Deep, maturing aromas of toffee, butterscotch, ginger and molasses. Fat and rich in the mouth, with excellent intensity; in the mature Bollinger style but far more successful than the bottling from the lower-acid 1989 vintage. Thick with extract, and palate-staining on the aftertaste. A main-course Champagne.

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

Bollinger’s 2007 Brut La Grande Année is quite pretty. Elegant, restrained and understated in style, the 2007 is one of the more delicate young Grande Années I can remember tasting. Mid-weight structure and silky texture only reinforce that impression. Lemon oil, red berry, dried flowers and chamomile open up nicely, but it is the wine’s…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a little more amplitude compared to the Clavaillon, scents of Granny Smith apples and dewy meadow on a cold morning. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more weight and girth than the Clavaillon, not to mention a touch more salinity…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

The 2005 Montrachet is, in my experience, a tricky and variable wine. Once again, though, we are fortunate to have a fine example in this, the most satisfying bottle of the 2005 I have ever tasted. Dried orchard fruit, spice, honey and tropical notes all grace a forward, silky Montrachet that is likely to offer…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2008 Montrachet from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti ranks amongst not only the best vintages that I have tasted from the domaine, but possibly the greatest white Burgundy I have ever tasted. The nose is breathtaking in terms of its precision and mineralité. There are not overt, easily definable aromas in situ, more an articulation…