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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1998 Beychevelle is a vintage where I have meted out criticism in the past. I just find this very jejune on the nose, lacking real vigor and presence, fatigued. This feels as if the fruit did not reach full ripeness. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. Rather thin for a Grand Cru Classé,…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is blossoming into a gorgeous wine. It has an attractive, pure and winsome bouquet with dark berry fruit, crushed stone and undergrowth aromas supremely well bound together by the oak. So precise and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, edgy and precise with just the right amount of…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(60% vendange entier; recently completed its malo): Bright, dark red. Expressive, distinctly red aromas of redcurrant, iron, minerals and vanillin oak, complicated by smoky underbrush. Smooth and sweet in the mouth, even creamy, with the deep red fruit flavors suggesting a leisurely ripening process. Substantial ripe tannins arrive late and coat the sides of the…

Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Insignia is a bold, explosive wine. Sumptuous dark fruit, mocha, leather, sweet spice and tobacco are all amplified in an Insignia endowed with tremendous textural intensity and plenty of soft contours. I imagine the 2019 will age well for years, but it will also drink well with minimal cellaring.

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

Tasted from barrel, the 2019 Insignia is a mere infant. Swaths of tannin wrap around a core of dark fruit. The 2019 is a brooding, potent Insignia that is going to need time to come around.

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso has a level of aromatic intensity and breadth that is truly remarkable, especially for the year. Medium in body, gracious and lifted, the 2014 is pure class. Mocha, espresso, black cherry, leather and smoke are beautifully delineated in the glass. Medium in body and super-polished, the 2014 is…