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Bending Rules: Les Carmes Haut-Brion 1955-2019 (Oct 2022)

The 2012 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was the first vintage with whole bunches (40%) and 18 months in barrel. It was the introductory vintage under current winemaker Guillaume Pouthier. This is much more enticing on the nose after the 2011: well-defined black cherries, cola, peppermint, light rose petal scents and a hint of marmalade that emerges…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A powerful, intense wine, the 2012 Les Carmes Haut-Brion exudes richness and depth. Game, smoke, tobacco, grilled herbs, black cherries and incense are some of the signatures. This explosive, powerful Pessac is going to need time to settle down, but it is exceptionally beautiful, even at this very early stage. Les Carmes Haut-Brion is marked…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(44% merlot, 38% cabernet franc and 18% cabernet sauvignon; 14% alcohol; 53% selection for the grand vin): Saturated ruby with purple highlights. Dark plum, blackberry, ink and minerals on the knockout nose. Silky and deep for 2012, but with no shortage of underlying structure. Quite full and complex, with sneaky concentration and building sweetness to…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Floral aromas of black plum and graphite. Easygoing and fine-grained, with a distinctly cool quality to the blackberry, floral and mint flavors. Pliant in the middle palate but with cedar, floral and herbal notes providing very good lift. Its light touch and suave mouth feel make Beychevelle easy to recognize in a blind…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby. Aromas of dark berries, licorice, bitter chocolate and menthol, with a hint of leather. Densely packed, pliant and glossy, with strong acidity and an herbal element buffering the wine’s sweetness. The lightly herbal quality carries through on the long finish, which features dusty tannins and noteworthy energy. A very strong vintage for this…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2009 Beychevelle is very perfumed and floral on the nose with brambly red fruit loam, incense and mint. It’s well-defined and shows more pedigree than the 2005. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, a fine bead of acidity and slightly grainy in texture. This has a touch of curry leaf towards the…