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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

A week after tasting it from bottle, I re-tasted the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild from imperial. This has greater purity on the nose, perhaps less sauvage with vivacious red fruit, though cedar and allspice traits still come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with those same pliant tannins that lend this First Growth such fluidity. This…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Dark ruby-red. Black- and redcurrants and smoke on the nose; less oak-spicy today than the ’96. Silky and harmonious but currently rather withdrawn. Not quite as sweet as the ’96. Here the substantial toothcoating tannins come across as somewhat tougher, but there enough sheer extract for balance. Interestingly, this backward, rather powerful wine suggests the…

Vinous Table: Restaurant La Grande Georgette, Champagne, France (Apr 2025)

I have been fortunate to taste and drink the 2015 La Tâche on multiple occasions, and it has never been anything less than profound. Bright and beautifully focused with tremendous purity of fruit, the 2015 is so dynamic, so compelling. Is it ready to drink? Not for readers who enjoy fully mature Burgundies. But there…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1999 Latour has a dark garnet color with little aging on the rim. The nose is closed initially and demands coaxing, eventually revealing blackberry, cedar and light pencil-shaving aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, displaying some secondary notes of clove, white pepper and a distinct earthiness that comes through on the finish….

Vertical Tasting of Domaine de Chevalier Rouge (Apr 2013)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 13.2% alcohol): Bright red with an amber rim. Ripe red cherry, coffee, camphor and leather on the nose, plus a hint of game. Supple and drinkable already, showing an animal component to the exotic smoky oak, dark berry and herb flavors. Finishes slightly earthy, with chunky,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium ruby-red. Raspberry, tobacco, smoke, olive and nutty oak on the nose. Distinctly drier in the mouth than the 2002 or 2003, with bright fruit flavors but also an obvious herbal component. Precise but uncompromisingly dry, and dominated today by its firm tannic spine. The Derenoncourt era began with the 2002.