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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(bottled in March of 2003) Medium ruby-red. Nose conveys a roasted ripeness, offering jammy dark berries, kirsch, chocolatey oak and a suggestion of menthol. Fat and sweet on entry, then quite powerful in the middle and closed on the finish. The huge tannins saturate the cheeks and teeth. With its 14.6% alcohol, this very long,…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Expressive aromas of smoked plum, roast coffee, nuts and game. Lush, dense and smooth; currant, cedar and leather flavors are more primary than those of the above wine. Finishes with rich, smooth tannins. Lovely wine.

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2000)

Bright, deep ruby. Syrupy black and red berries and dark chocolate on the nose. Powerful, thick and concentrated on entry, then a bit hard-edged, with bright acidity and a faint greenness. Rather awkward today, with notes of tar, coffee grounds, soy sauce and maple syrup currently overshadowing the wine fruit. Finishes with substantial, dusty tannins….

Best New Releases from Australia (Jul 2001)

Ruby-red. Complex, high-toned, oak-driven aromas of mocha, flowers, spices, bourbon, peat, licorice, vanilla, cigar tobacco and earth. Juicy and penetrating, with strong mineral, lead pencil, espresso and tobacco flavors. Has a solid backbone and noteworthy grip, but shows no hard edges. Finishes with big, ripe tannins and excellent length.