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In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Latour is a vintage that has constantly left me disappointed in context of the growing season and the performance of its peers such as Mouton-Rothschild or Léoville Las Cases. This last bottle did nothing to change my opinion. It just feels enervated on the nose, as if it cannot be bothered to offer…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep ruby-red color. More expressive aromas of crystallized dark berries, dark chocolate and animal fur. Lush and sweet; thick but delineated. Wonderfully concentrated. This, too, seems rather withdrawn today, but the strength of material is clear to see. Finishes with firm tannins and explosive fruit that goes on and on.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Exotic aromas of cassis, meat and smoke, plus a whiff of funky wood. Then remarkably sweet, lush and suave, with a flavor of raw berries. Pure Margaux silkiness allied to firm structure. Finishes very long, with rich, sweet tannins. Remarkable wine, particularly considering that the bottle was not perfect. Pristine bottles of this…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1983 Château Margaux is a fantastic wine that heralded the true return of the First Growth. This bottle came directly from the château’s cellars. Incredible delineation and focus on the nose, this is just so pure and charming with black fruit, graphite, melted tar, cedar and pressed rose petals. It is close to perfection….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Château Margaux is consistently brilliant at the moment. This is the third bottle tasted in almost as many months. It has a vivacious bouquet with blackberry, tar and tobacco. It’s mineral-driven with a gorgeous wilted rose petal scent embroidered into the aromatic profile. The palate has an effortless quality all of its own,…

Cellar Favorite: 1991 Dominus (Nov 2022)

This 1991 Dominus was poured blind in Meursault and had me guessing Right Bank, perchance Cheval Blanc! Showing light signs of bricking on the rim, the bouquet unfurls gracefully with melted red fruit, cooked meat, ash and very subtle hints of hung game, all exquisitely defined. Mercurial in the glass, the aromatics seem to broaden…