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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a blend of 53% merlot and 47% cabernet franc; 43 h/h): Deep ruby. Penetrating blackcurrant, menthol, herbal, cocoa and tobacco aromas. Rich, ripe and dense, with a chocolatey, voluptuous mouth feel but also plenty of acidity to provide lift to the blackcurrant, plum and licorice flavors. Dominated by its merlot component, this wine finishes long…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Cheval Blanc is a wine that I have encountered more than a dozen times. Now at just over 20 years of age (how time flies – I remember tasting this from barrel), it has a lovely, quite beguiling bouquet of brambly red berries, iron rust, Provençal herbs and clove, powerful and somehow enveloping….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good medium ruby. Blackberry jam, tobacco leaf, minerals, violet and shoe polish on the nose. Then very concentrated but painfully tight and closed in on itself, with its cool blackberry and chocolate flavors dominated by its tannic structure. Showing the slightly green, medicinal quality that often characterizes young cabernet franc. Today there’s little evidence of…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, stoic, delineated bouquet with scents of wet limestone and sea spray, just a slight menthol note developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. A very pretty, elegant Bienvenue that reveals hints of blood orange and sour lemon on the precise,…

Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

One of the highlights in this tasting, the 1987 Opus One is simply gorgeous. Cinnamon, cloves, cigar box, cedar, menthol, licorice and pine all flesh out in a deeply expressive, resonant Opus One of the highest level. I am amazed at how young, vibrant and utterly impeccable the 1987 is. The tannins remain alive, so…

1987 California Cabernets (Sep 2002)

Bright red-ruby. Captivating aromas of currant, smoky French oak, coffee, game and animal fur. Sweet and meaty in the mouth, with lovely texture and suggestions of exotic spices. Opens out nicely on the back half in a way that few of these ’87s do; has a mouthfeel I can only describe as claret-like. A firmly…