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2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(malo finished): Very reduced aromas of oatmeal and iodine. Hugely concentrated, rich and tactile, with hints of lemon, minerals, smoke and spices. Finishes musky, sweet and soil-inflected, with terrific mineral drive. There are just four and a half barrels of this juice in 2013–and only three in 2012.

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Grands-Échézeaux comes across as quite wild in its powerful, unrestrained personality. In recent vintages, the GE has become more polished, but the 2013 is a real brute today. Dark, savory almost Syrah-like notes take shape in the glass. Game, smoke, herbs and wild flowers wrap around the imposing, bracing finish. I expect the…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy dark red. An initial note of reduction dissipated to reveal sexy scents of raspberry, blueberry, smoky minerals and Oriental spices. Densely packed and vibrant, with concentrated berry fruit accented by pepper and spices from the stems. Firm tannins will support slow development in bottle. There’s way more inner-mouth tension and éclat here than I…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Bright yellow with green highlights. Explosive aromas of ripe peach, crushed stone, lavender sea salt and spices. Wonderfully rich and broad without any excess weight, with strong acidity and crushed-stone minerality leavening the fine-grained flavors of orange cream and fleur de sel. Best today on the slowly building, refined finish, which leaves the mouth vibrating…

Vinous Table: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London, UK (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was a prelude to my revisiting that vintage in the Côte d’Or that autumn. It’s at a beautiful place right now. Vivid Morello cherries, wild strawberries and hints of pressed violet petals unfold on the nose. It is not the most intense I have encountered…

Vinous Table: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London, UK (Dec 2023)

The 2014 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti was a prelude to my revisiting that vintage in the Côte d’Or that autumn. It’s at a beautiful place right now. Vivid Morello cherries, wild strawberries and hints of pressed violet petals unfold on the nose. It is not the most intense I have encountered…