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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Medium yellow color. Brooding aromas of pineapple, pine needles, toffee and nuts. Dense, full and quite dry, with penetrating fruit, hints of oak spice, and powerful acids that have not yet come into harmony. But this extremely impressive young Bollinger vintage shifts into a higher gear on the back end, showing even more flavor intensity…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Vivid ruby. Very ripe scents of dark plum, graphite and leather and a strong note of underbrush on the initially reduced nose. Fleshy and smooth on entry, showing hefty, slightly warm, ripe dark fruit and licorice flavors, but turns austere on the long back end, finishing with tight tannins and a metallic edge. Really not…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pontet Canet has a well-defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, tar and tobacco, classic in style, maybe just missing a little flair? The palate is sweet and rounded in texture, quite extractive with mulberry and gamey notes, fairly bretty towards the almost Rhône-like finish. This is difficult to fathom out, not an unenjoyable…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure….

Montevertine: Le Pergole Torte 1980-2012 (Jan 2016)

The 2000 Le Pergole Torte is bright, fresh and lifted, with surprisingly mid-weight structure and lovely overall balance. The 2000 is a delicate, polished Pergole Torte with terrific balance and a real sense of sensuality. Given the warm vintage, this is a surprisingly delicate wine. A bit fragile and fading, the 2000 is a wine…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Musky, moderately ripe aromas of plum, tobacco leaf and herbs. Fruity and supple but a bit simple, combining a candied quality and some green notes in the middle plate. Lacks real depth and finishes with a repeating suggestion of candied fruits.