Archives: Product Reviews

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2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Medium dullish red. Indistinct red fruits and spices on the nose. Supple and spicy, with modest lift to the black raspberry, spice and mineral flavors. Offers decent sweetness but finishes with edgy acidity and slightly drying tannins. Not bad, but not especially primary either.

Champagne: 2023 New Releases (Nov 2023)

The 2012 La Grande Dame is a pretty wine, but it is starting to show the first signs of aromatic development. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, but it is something readers should keep in mind when deciding when to open this. I would not push my luck on aging. Dried pear, ginger, crushed flowers…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep ruby-red. Deep, lively aromas of red- and blackcurrants, licorice, tobacco and grilled nuts. Great sweetness and silky texture in the mouth currently overshadows the wine strong supporting acidity and tight core of spice and minerals. The toothcoating tannins don’t cover as much of the mouth as those of the ’96 do, but this wine…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

This bottle of 1990 Lafite-Rothschild replicates the one poured at the château several months earlier. The bouquet offers black fruit, a little dustiness, leather and light marine notes, but again, it never slips into fifth gear. It just lacks vivacity. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly hard tannin, modest fruit concentration and a monochromatic finish…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Saturated deep red. Shoe polish, minerals and cassis on the nose, with a hint of toasty oak. Intensely flavored, vibrant fruit shows great middle-palate fullness for a young Lafite. Very long, multidimensional finish of great subtlety. Has the acidity and tannic underpinning for long life. An outstanding, classic Lafite; claret for the millennium. Along with…

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…