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Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Vieux-Château-Certan is clearly very sophisticated on the nose, tight at first but opening with graphite and crushed stone infused black fruit. Brilliant delineation and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a wonderful bead of acidity. There is beguiling symmetry from start to finish that underpins this top Pomerol. One…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2015 Vieux Château Certan is a wine that Alexandre Thienpont described as being “easy to understand.” He was rather negative towards this vintage and likened it to a barbecue rather than haut cuisine! It was picked in three waves through the vines between September 17 and October 2 at 42hl/ha. This has a comparatively…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2006 Lafleur is a little better than previous bottles, opening nicely with blackberry, Italian delicatessen, light crushed stone scents and a hint of bay leaf. It is a conservative but exhibits more terroir expression than the 2007. The palate is firm and structured and lacks a bit of flair, but there is ample concentration…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good full, deep red. Brooding aromas of black cherry, cherry pit and licorice, plus a note that reminded me of a liqueur of flowers. Sweet, chewy and very ripe, but with restraint and focus to the youthful, mineral-driven flavors of dark fruits, licorice and pepper. This shows the cooler, medicinal cast of a classic young…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The La Grave is a muscular, authoritative Pomerol. Here the flavors are dark and intense, while the wine’s vertical sense of structure adds to an impression of brooding, virile power. Black cherry, lavender, menthol, scorched earth and grilled herb inflections, along with potent tannins, give La Grave its distinctly baritone voice. I would prefer to…