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Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)

Bonneau du Martray’s 2006 Corton-Charlemagne (magnum) opens with a super-classic bouquet of slate, crushed rocks and hints of reduction. Bracing and intense and energetic, the 2006 flows with superb focus and pure mineral-drenched cut. From magnum, the 2006 is simply dazzling and appears to have many years of fine drinking ahead of it. 95

Vinous Table: Salumeria Roscioli, Rome, Italy (Jun 2015)

I began the meal with the 2004 Bonneau de Martray Corton-Charlemagne, which is drinking beautifully at present: a whiff of reduction blew off with aeration, revealing precise mineral driven acacia flower, honeyed stone fruit and delicate hazelnut aromas and flavors. At 200 years and counting, the family running the Domaine knows a thing or two…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Domaine Bonneau du Martray is served blind in Bordeaux rather than Burgundy. There is a slight dustiness on the nose, a common trait amongst red and whites in this vintage, what evolves into a rather vegetal tincture. The palate is medium-bodied with an unmistakable greenness that knocks this off…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Medium red. Virtually mute on first pour, closed and peppery in the mouth and impossible to taste. With 24 hours in the recorked bottle, this showed lovely raspberry and rose petal aromas and flavors; a far more chewy texture; and complex nuances of sappy, salty minerality. Finishes with dusty tannins and very good tactile persistence.

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 1998 Clos de Tart Grand Cru puts in a rather disappointing performance. At 20 years of age, it shows some bricking on the rim. The bouquet starts off well, offering generous red berry fruit and a touch of menthol, but with aeration it develops a more herbaceous character and then an element that is…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Bright ruby. Highly complex nose melds black raspberry, Indian spices, gunflint, tar and smoky oak; seemed to grow fresher and more vibrant with aeration. Dense, thick and highly concentrated, with brilliantly defined but still rather backward fruit flavors. Finishes with great length and extremely fine tannins that dust the entire mouth.