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2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Bricco delle Viole is going to need a few years to emerge, but it has all the qualities to develop into a truly special wine. Dark red/purplish fruit, hard candy, mint, lavender and sweet spice give the 2016 striking inner perfume. On the palate, the 2016 is a tightly wound, classically austere…

2015 Barolo…The Bigger Picture (Feb 2019)

The flagship Barolo Bricco delle Viole is quite understated and gracious in 2015. Medium in body, with the persistent tannins that are so typical of this site, the 2015 is lithe, focused and full of energy. The warm vintage notwithstanding, in 2015, Vajra’s Bricco delle Viole is distinctly sinewy and tense. It will offer considerable…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2010 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Cru has matured well in bottle, delivering clean and pure red cherry, crushed strawberry and raspberry preserve scents, just a hint of wilted rose petal developing with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, supple tannin. It feels crisp and focused, quite mineral-driven with a precise…

Taupenot-Merme: Mazoyères-Chambertin 2002-2017 (Aug 2020)

The 2009 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru offers gorgeous blackberry, wild strawberry, pressed rose petal and graphite on the nose, along with a splash of iodine. The palate is fleshy and spicy on the opening, and not as precise as the 2010, but I was surprised how muscular the finish is becoming. It turned more lactic with…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Charmes-Chambertin is mysterious, engaging and beautiful. Freshly cut roses, sweet red berries, spices and licorice are some of the nuances that are woven together in this impeccable, silky wine. There is no beginning and no end, just a pure expression of one of Burgundy’s greatest sites. This is a totally understated, gracious Charmes…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – New Releases (Sep 2014)

The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Bucerchiale comes across as rustic and rough around the edges, with less of its customary balance. Hints of leather, smoke, cedar and tobacco emerge over time, but the 2010 never seems to come together.