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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good medium ruby. Ripe, slightly high-toned aromas and flavors of cassis and chocolate, lifted by cedar and minerals. Then more dark berries and minerals in the mouth, complicated by a candied violet nuance. Not particularly large-scaled in what is a generally exotic, very ripe vintage, but intensely flavored and very well delineated, offering an enticing…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 2% cabernet franc; pH 3.72; 75 IPT; 70% new oak) Purple ruby. Smoky blackberry, blueberry juice, chocolate and a whiff of iron on the nose. With air, this became silky, pliant and rather easygoing, with good depth to the flavors of small dark berries and flint. Finishes with creamy…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand Puy-Lacoste has a clean and precise bouquet with graphite infused red berry fruit, woodland scents, fern and touches of autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite bold and assertive with dried blood and ferrous notes infusing the red fruit towards the persistent finish. You could broach this now although…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(an 88/12 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; 14% alcohol; from a crop level of just 27 hectoliters per hectare, according to estate manager Jean-Pascal Vazart) Saturated medium-deep ruby. Rather oaky, chocolatey nose hints at a very dense wine. Actually lighter on entry than expected, with ripe blackcurrant and balsamic black cherry flavors. Displays higher-than-usual…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Full, deep red-ruby. Exotic aromas of dark berries, cocoa, underbrush and ink. Thick, broad and full, but with lively acidity giving a light touch to the rich, dense dark fruit, balsamic vinegar and chocolate flavors. Finishes long and oaky, with an opulent, high-alcohol mouthfeel, big tannins and a note of fresh herbs.

Vinous Table: Private Dinner at Wheeler Farms, Saint Helena, CA (Feb 2023)

The 2005 Léoville-Las-Cases is one of my favorite wines of the night. Now, after 17 years, the 2005 is in a place where it is not a crime to open a bottle. Elegant and regal in bearing, the 2005 Las-Cases is simply everything Las-Cases can and should be. This is a great, great bottle. I…