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2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

One of the least expressive wines in this range, the 2012 Chambertin is quite closed today. Iron, dark/black fruit, spices and tobacco take shape in the glass, but ultimately it is the tannins and overall sense of structure that dominate. This large-scaled, broad 2012 is going to need quite a bit of time to fully…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2008)

Bright red. Seductively perfumed nose offers a complex bouquet of dried cherry, vanilla, cola, potpourri, smoky minerals and cedar. Silky red berry and cherry flavors are sweetened by vanilla bean and take on tannic structure with air. Becomes deeper and riper on the impressively long, sweet, lightly chewy finish, which strongly echoes the cherry and…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 1989 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a slightly diffuse nose that seems fully mature. It’s quite airy in style and lacks presence, which is not a trait that I associate with the de Vogüé. The palate has a grainy texture and thick boned-tannins evidencing maybe a touch of overextraction, and as a consequence…

Focus on the Languedoc (Jul 2000)

Syrah: Bright ruby-red. Sauvage aromas of cherry, leather and roasted game. Sappy and fruit-driven in the mouth, with flavors of red berries, cherry, spicy oak and dark chocolate. Fat, concentrated and sweet. Cabernet sauvignon: Saturated bright ruby. Tobacco leaf, tar and currant aromas. Dense but juicy in the mouth, with jammy, liqueur-like fruit complicated by…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Healthy medium red. Strawberry, raspberry, cherry and crushed stone on the musky nose. Silky but at the same time juicy, with strong minerality contributing to the wine’s nervosite A distinct step up in flavor intensity over the foregoing samples. Very fresh, penetrating wine with lovely subtle length. But Mugnier noted that it’s no higher in…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Deep red. Aromatic nose of blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, minerals and lead pencil. Dense but imploded, with excellent intensity and delineation of flavor. Finishes with substantial oak tannins. This structured, concentrated wine strikes me as just ripe enough to really blossom with time in bottle.