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Raveneau Chablis Montée de Tonnerre: 1985-2015 (Aug 2019)

Very pale gold. Initially closed wet stone and menthol nose shows riper notes of pineapple, marzipan and toast as the wine opens in the glass. Then plush, broad and voluminous in the mouth, with the impression of oatmeal and marzipan ripeness repeating. I don’t find quite the fruity treble notes that this wine showed in…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a powerful, dense wine. It possesses tremendous richness and tons of intensity. Radiance and phenolic intensity are two of the signatures. That’s about all I can tell you, as the 2015 is nowhere near ready to drink. It does have tremendous potential though, that is clear.

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a slightly muffled, rather anonymous bouquet that requires a little more clarity. The palate is taut and crisp on the entry and the acidity nicely judged, although it needs more persistence toward the saline finish. Not bad and it seems to improve, gaining more refinement with aeration. There is…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Light straw-yellow. Deep, soil-inflected aromas and flavors of white stone fruits, clove, hazelnut, marzipan, white pepper, smoke and minerals, with a note of orange bitters emerging after extended aeration. Wonderfully rich, silky and mouthfilling but not at all heavy, showing considerable baby fat for young Corton-Charlemagne but with a powerful stony underpinning. Seriously rich, ageworthy…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, dark red. Deeper-pitched on the nose than the Echézeaux, offering scents of black raspberry, clove, mocha and dark chocolate. Similarly more soil-driven in the mouth than the 2016 version, but with its thick flavors of earth, spices and saline minerality conveying a light touch for 2015. Finishes sappy, vibrant and long, with thoroughly ripe…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru has an alluring bouquet of mulberry, hoisin, sage and crushed stone, a subtle meaty element becoming noticeable with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly creamy opening. There is more lushness here compared to the Village Cru, and damson and white pepper emerge toward the finish….