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Mosel Riesling 2016 Part 1: From Extremes, Equilibrium (Jan 2018)

Scents of brown-spiced dried pear and apple lead into a glossy, glycerol-rich, sappy and soothing palate. The long finish delivers a burst of fresh fruit as well as a transparency to stony, saline nuances that one might not have anticipated given what went before, but which nicely demonstrate the effects of block-picking in capturing virtues…

Mosel Riesling 2016 Part 2: Longuich to Graach (Jan 2018)

This evinces a cooler, decidedly less tropical personality than a number of other Haag 2016s. Pear, quince and honeydew melon are infused with green herbs on an effusive nose and a silken, subtly creamy yet infectiously juicy palate. Bittersweet inner-mouth perfume adds to the allure of an impeccably balanced Riesling whose sweetness (even at nearly…

Rheinhessen and Nahe 2015: Cool Concentration from a “Warm Vintage” (Nov 2017)

Cooling oregano and zesty fresh lime and lemon inform a penetratingly pungent nose and a firm, concentrated palate in this amalgamation of fruit from Keller’s Grosses Gewächs sites. Juiciness and crunch of cucumber and ripe apple highlight the virtues he rightly associates with his 2015 fruit as well as the virtues of high-active-lime soil. The…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Ripe honeydew melon mingles with contrasting crunchy apple and bracing fresh lime. These are joined by quince on a glossy, subtly creamy, pure-fruited palate. Hints of almond cream paste and vanilla cream create a lightly confectionary impression that somehow harmonizes with the wine’s vivacious fresh-fruit aspects. There is a lovely sense of lift throughout this…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Mirabelle and Persian melon mingle with lime and grapefruit on an attention-getting nose and a luscious, ultra-buoyant, glycerol-rich, subtly creamy palate. While harboring only 7.5 percent alcohol (a bit more, granted, than the corresponding 2014) and hence residual sugar in the mid-80s, this manages to balance perfectly, with the impression of sweetness entirely supportive of…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Deep ruby. Sexy, oak-tinged dark berry and floral scents pick up cracked pepper and licorice flourishes with aeration. Juicy and precise on the palate, offering sweet blackberry and cherry flavors that unfold and spread out steadily on the back half. Shows impressive clarity and spicy persistence on the finish, which is framed by smooth, even…