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Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori is rich, layered and exceptionally polished. This is an especially serious vintage for the Marchese Antinori. All of the fruit comes from the Antinori family’s Tignanello estate. Silky tannins wrap around a core of dark red cherry/plum, spice, leather and tobacco. There’s tremendous weight, power and depth, that…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Deep brilliant crimson. Aromas of ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers and garrigue develop a spicecake nuance as the wine opens up. Juicy and seamless on the palate, offering sweet black raspberry, cherry compote, licorice and lavender pastille flavors that display superb depth as well as unlikely energy. Doesn’t let up on the impressively…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Medium ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, coffee, cocoa and graphite. Dense, sappy and quite dry, with serious acidity giving spine to the flavors of red fruits, coffee, spices and graphite. Not an easy style but sharply chiseled and taut. Finishes with good subtle length. I find this has sneaky concentration and depth.

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Duhart-Milon has a more fleshy nose with brambly red fruit, loamy soil, graphite. A mintiness develops with aeration. The palate is savoury in style, firmly in secondary flavours with meat juices, leather and Provençal herbs. It misses freshness on the finish – a rather odd showing. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2009 Dom Pérignon is open, seductive and radiant, as it has always been. Soft curves, mid-weight structure and tons of plain allure make the 2009 impossible to resist in its youth. This bottle, the best I have tasted so far, offers a distinc citrus and floral-driven profile that adds a good deal of brightness….

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

Reticent aromas of menthol, peach and white flowers. Ripe and vibrant, boasting terrific energy and precision to the stone fruit and floral flavors. Conveys an impression of density without weight, with cut and intensity more akin to a 2010 than a ’12. Finishes clean and very long, with penetrating peach and sweet nut flavors.