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Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

Tasted next to the Valferana, the 2016 Gattinara Vigna Molsino is much more nervous in feel. Iron, dried herbs, sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and earthy notes give the Molsino a good deal of aromatic complexity to match its intense, saline-infused minerality. Today, though, the tannins and acids are almost overpowering. Readers…

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Barbaresco Pajè is the most nuanced and complete of the four wines in this lower tier of vineyard designates. Deceptively light in body, the 2015 possesses striking complexity and dimensions. Breadth and power are implied more than overtly stated. Clean, minerally notes punctuate the finish. The Pajè packs a serious punch. It will…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is fragrant, delineated and coiled up at first, although it only takes a few swirls of the glass before it awakens. Crushed stone infuses the red fruit, and hints of oyster shells emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied and very cohesive, with finely-chiselled tannins and just…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a perfumed, fairly “airy” bouquet of redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit, crushed stone, loam and just a hint of tobacco. This is certainly what you might describe as a “transparent” nose. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. The 2021 is very elegant and smooth in terms…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambertin Grand Cru bides its time in the glass. Dark berry fruit, oyster shell and blackcurrant pastilles mix with subtle autumn leaf scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, cohesive but not deep or concentrated. Shows fine acidity and is nicely poised, though it’s unapologetically conservative on the finish. Is this hiding…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has an almost flinty bouquet with delicate wilted rose petal scents that gradually unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, the 65% whole bunch barely detectable. Very cohesive, fine tannins, very saline towards the finish with shucked oyster shell, one of this limestone-rich vineyard’s signature notes. Sculpted…