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The Best New Cotes du Rhone Releases (Apr 2014)

Opaque ruby. Smoke- and mineral-accented dark berries, violet and pipe tobacco on the perfumed nose. Offers spicy blackberry and cassis flavors and a touch of fruitcake, with zesty acidity adding lift. Very forward for such a young Hermitage. Dusty tannins build on the finish, which lingers with very good tenacity and appealing sweetness.

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

Pear, pineapple and minerals on the nose. Sappy, brisk and penetrating but still youthfully tight, with firm acidity to the fore. The mineral element is accentuated by an almost minty reserve on the back. Very young and in need of at least a couple years of bottle aging. The yield here was in the 35…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good deep ruby-red. Explosive aromas of blackcurrant, mocha, coffee, molasses and spices. Sweet but firm, with sound acidity contributing excellent vinosity and leavening the wine’s richness. Expressive flavors of raw currant, game and truffle. Thick but not overly fat, finishing with firm tannic spine and excellent persistence.

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Ruby-red. Port-like aromas of black cherry, roasted currant and smoky oak. Extraordinarily silky and seamless in the mouth, with uncanny texture and great suavity. Extremely long on the finish, with the tannins buried in fruit. A remarkably lush, accessible La Chapelle whose sheer density of material should enable it to develop in bottle for 15…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Antinori’s 2010 Tignanello is stunning, as it has been since I started tasting the component wines in 2011. Firm yet sweet, silky tannins form the backbone for this gorgeous, vivid wine. Dark red cherries, plums, cloves, mint and sage inform a Tignanello that impresses for its delineation, nuance and power. Clean, saline notes support the…

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again (Jan 2014)

Dark cherries, pine, menthol, licorice, smoke and underbrush all take shape in the 2010 Barolo Sarmassa. The darkest and most imposing of the Brezza Barolos, the Sarmassa is backed up by firm tannins that ensure the wine will drink well for a number of years. This is the most tightly wound of the Brezza 2010s,…