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Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2006 Richebourg Grand Cru has a wonderful blackberry, brine and slightly peppery nose, the stem addition maybe a little more tangible than I would have expected. It coalesces in the glass, scents of black tea emerging with time. The palate displays an effortless balance, the fine tannins framing layers of black fruit with veins…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep red. Lucid, high-pitched aromas of raspberry, red cherry, minerals and rose petal, with a complicating suggestion of smoky earth. Densely packed and distinctly black in character, but with compelling sweetness to go along with its rather massive, masculine personality. Finishes with muscular but ripe tannins and terrific palate-staining length.

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Pale straw-yellow. Very reticent scents of peach, pear and spearmint are less forthcoming than those of the Chevalier-Montrachet bottlings. Fat, saline and slightly disjointed in the early going; in a very rich but adamantly dry style. Shows full ripeness supported by penetrating acidity but this infant is not yet expressive or particularly complex. Strong minerality…

2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter (May 2018)

A wine of almost shocking, raw power, the 2017 d’Yquem possesses tremendous depth and intensity. I expect the 2017 is going to need many years to be at its best, but is also likely to remain exuberant and a bit unruly. I don’t see the quiet sophistication of the 2015, or the energy of the…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2017 Yquem is destined to be one of my favourite recent vintages. It has brilliant delineation on the nose with acacia honey, saffron, white flowers and a subtle crushed stone element. So much energy is palpable. The palate is supremely well balanced, surfeit with energy, spicy and feisty and yet paradoxically beautifully controlled and…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2009)

((500) Full medium ruby. Subdued but pure and vibrant nose offers black raspberry, minerals, licorice and truffle, all lifted by an ineffable perfume that carries through on the palate. Boasts terrific definition and energy; following the group of Bond offerings from ’06, this tasted like a wine from another vintage. Very intensely flavored but wonderfully…