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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

Not only is the 2018 Talbot the first vintage in which Jean-Michel Laporte was fully in charge, but it comes in a uniquely designed bottle to celebrate the centennial of ownership by the Cordier family. Fortunately, its contents make the grade. This Talbot is well defined and focused on the nose, offering blackberry, bilberry and…

The Best New Releases From Australia (Jul 1998)

Saturated ruby-red. Vibrant blackberry and blackcurrant nose shows pronounced sweet oak notes of scotch and tar. Juicy and intensely flavored, though currently a bit musclebound and not yet showing much complexity. But the tart, juicy berry flavors are fresh and nicely delineated. Finishes with dusty, slightly tongue-drying (oak?) tannins. May yet merit a higher score.

New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

(75% shiraz and 25% cabernet sauvignon) Opaque violet. Youthfully brooding aromas of cassis, boysenberry, black olive, licorice and Indian spices. Powerful and chewy in texture, offering vibrant dark berry and mineral flavors and an exotic floral pastille quality. Impressively lively for such a concentrated wine, with strong finishing thrust and precision. I’d give this at…

New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2008)

(100% shiraz from vines between 80 and 120 years of age) Inky ruby. Exotically perfumed nose displays ripe blueberry, boysenberry, cinnamon, wilted flowers and patchouli; smells like a head shop. Chewy dark berry flavors soften with air, ultimately offering superb clarity and a velvety texture. Becomes sweeter on the finish, with slowly building tannins adding…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2008)

(98.5% cabernet sauvignon) Full ruby-red. Pure aromas of cassis, mocha and nutty oak, with bright red berry and tobacco notes emerging with air. Superripe and thick but with strong acidity giving sharp definition to the middle palate. The blackcurrant and smoky oak flavors are sexed up by subtle hints of caramel, spices and burning cinders…

Vinous Table: La Taverne Alsacienne, Ingersheim, France (Feb 2019)

For once, the best wine of the evening during a dinner in Alsace was not an Alsatian white. It’s hard to argue with the simply magnificent 2006 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape Rouge, a masterpiece of refinement and precision. Not at all a blockbuster, but rather a paragon of balance and gracefulness, it offers…