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Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2017 Flaccianello della Pieve is fabulous. Dark, sensual and enveloping, the 2017 captures the essence of the house style in its textural richness and baritone inflections. Black cherry, plum, spice, new leather, licorice and chocolate infuse the 2017 with tremendous richness. The 2017 spent 18 months in barrique followed by 6 months in cask,…

2016 Chianti Classico – A Modern Day Benchmark (Aug 2019)

The 2016 Tignanello is flat out stunning. Dark, dense and resonant, the 2016 is a wonderfully complete wine that will provide readers with decades of pure drinking pleasure. The 2016 is especially dark and brooding, and yet the tannins are incredibly polished to the point of being perceptible. In the glass, the 2016 is complete…

Central Tuscany – Maremma, Montepulciano, Carmignano and Beyond (Nov 2016)

Antinori’s 2013 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso is ripe, voluptuous and racy, with striking aromatics that sit on top of a core of voluptuous, racy fruit. A classic Bolgheri wine, Guado al Tasso offers plenty of rich, sumptuous fruit and textural resonance. A good dose of new French oak (from a move towards Taransaud and…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Ruby-red with a pale rim. Initially closed nose opens slowly with aeration to offer delicate blackcurrant and mineral aromas complicated by a touch of field herbs. Then richer and deeper on the palate, with flinty blackcurrant, raspberry and herbal flavors carrying nicely through the aftertaste. The chewy, peppery tannins have smoothed out nicely with age….

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep red-ruby. Somewhat more evolved aromas of redcurrant, roasted coffee and smoked meat. Silky and lush in the mouth, but with less intensity and charm than the ’96. Seems a bit monolithic today. Tannins come across as slightly dry after the ’96.

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2004 Extra-Brut R.D. is a very pretty, understated Champagne that shows the more nuanced side that is typical of the vintage, while the signature Bollinger richness lies more in the background. That is the same impression I had last year, when I tasted the 2004 from magnum at the maison. Apricot, plum, hazelnut, chamomile,…