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A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2005 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 27 September and 5 October. This has a gorgeous bouquet, probably the best that the Bécot family made up until that point. It brims over with redcurrant, cranberry and red plum, hints of rose petal and ripe Satsuma with the mineralité tucked in just underneath. The palate is…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Very ripe but lively aromas of kirsch, licorice, bitter chocolate, nuts and violet. Dense and sweet but vibrant, with a medicinal reserve and terrific grip to the superripe fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Wonderfully rich, pliant wine with late-arriving tannins and a terrific spine for a slow evolution in bottle. Much more tightly…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Opaque ruby. Fresh cherry and boysenberry on the nose, with seductive floral and mineral qualities adding complexity. Becomes more pungent with air, picking up tobacco, spicecake and dried violet scents. Juicy dark fruit flavors spread across the palate, ending with good mineral snap. This is very intriguing, as well as quite young.

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Deep red-ruby; less saturated than the last few samples. Reduced, vinous nose hints at pungent wild red fruits, minerals, smoked meat and tobacco. Silky and fine-grained; boasts a spherical shape that few wines of this vintage-or any other-can match. This has a wonderfully suave palate feel and coats every square millimeter of the palate. The…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Full ruby-red. Pure, complex but restrained nose offers blackberry, black cherry, licorice, spices and black pepper. Wonderfully intense and vibrant, with a compellingly chewy texture and great thrust to the highly concentrated dark fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. The fine-grained tannins spread out to saturate the palate of this powerfully structured Volnay, with the wine’s…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Recent vintages of the 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru have left me not particularly impressed. In this era, the winemaking duties were undertaken by Benjamin Leroux; this magnum was bought by current winemaker Paul Zanetti. I just find it trying much too hard to make an impression. The aromas are bold and in…