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The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2019 Opus One is a dense, beautifully layered wine, but it is also quite restrained. That should serve it well in time. Tasted next to the 2018, the 2019 possesses a bit more textural nuance and body, yet it has all the classicism that is such an Opus One signature. Bright floral accents linger…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Gruaud Larose has a well-defined nose, more savoury, earthier in style, singed leather and undergrowth/damp moss infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, spicy red fruit laced with tobacco and a little soy. Fine tension here, quite harmonious towards the finish, this is a fine Saint-Julien. Tasted blind at…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Deep ruby. A heavy dose of torrefaction (cocoa, coffee, smoke) dominates raspberry and blackcurrant aromas. Dense and suave in the mouth, offering fleshy dark fruit flavors that gain weight and intensity with air. The coffee, cocoa and sweet spice notes echo strongly on the long, smooth finish. I’d forget about this in the cellar for…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac is a burly, powerful wine that will need quite a bit of time to come into its own, although it may never be particularly refined. Today the tannins are clenched and imposing, especially for the wine’s medium-bodied frame. Bright red stone fruit, white pepper and floral notes are some of the signatures.

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac is similar to the bottle poured blind at the Southwold tasting just a few weeks earlier. It has a crisp red currant and cranberry bouquet laced with tobacco, cedar and chalk. The palate is well defined and beautifully balanced, delivering crisp acidity and fine tannin. This is unashamedly taut and linear, but…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru may well be the most perplexing offering from the domaine this year. Backward and reticent on the nose, this is very well-defined, but my word, you have to eke out the light sea cave and limestone scents with rigorous swirling of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and very…