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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby. Exotic, enticing aromas of black fruits, cherry cough syrup, roast coffee and caramel, along with pungent oakiness. Sweet, fat and thick in the mouth, but with adequate framing acidity. Quite ripe on the back end, with much finer tannins than the foregoing ’97s.

2016 Chianti Classico – A Modern Day Benchmark (Aug 2019)

The 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori emerges entirely from Antinori’s Tignanello estate. Plump and forward, with juicy dark fruit, the Marchese Antinori is done in a decidedly modern, lush style. Mocha, sweet spice, licorice and black plum meld into the creamy finish. The 2016 is attractive, but I can’t help thinking a lighter hand…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori is rich, layered and exceptionally polished. This is an especially serious vintage for the Marchese Antinori. All of the fruit comes from the Antinori family’s Tignanello estate. Silky tannins wrap around a core of dark red cherry/plum, spice, leather and tobacco. There’s tremendous weight, power and depth, that…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Deep brilliant crimson. Aromas of ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers and garrigue develop a spicecake nuance as the wine opens up. Juicy and seamless on the palate, offering sweet black raspberry, cherry compote, licorice and lavender pastille flavors that display superb depth as well as unlikely energy. Doesn’t let up on the impressively…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Medium ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, coffee, cocoa and graphite. Dense, sappy and quite dry, with serious acidity giving spine to the flavors of red fruits, coffee, spices and graphite. Not an easy style but sharply chiseled and taut. Finishes with good subtle length. I find this has sneaky concentration and depth.

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Duhart-Milon has a more fleshy nose with brambly red fruit, loamy soil, graphite. A mintiness develops with aeration. The palate is savoury in style, firmly in secondary flavours with meat juices, leather and Provençal herbs. It misses freshness on the finish – a rather odd showing. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.