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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 2015 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that requires more time to settle and decide what it wants to be. The nose needs just a little more cohesion and focus, quite upfront and overtly floral, perhaps more than it needs to be and it just slightly occludes the terroir expression at the moment. The palate is…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Ducru-Beaucaillou is maybe a little more understated than its peers; it doesn’t grab you by your lapels and demand your attention. It is attractive, but I would have liked more vigor. The medium-bodied palate presents grainy tannin, gentle grip, more freshness in the mouth than on the nose, and a pastille-like purity toward…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Pavie is very clearly one of the wines of the year. Rich, inky and wonderfully vibrant, it pulses with energy from start to finish. All the elements are well balanced. Soaring Cabernet Franc aromatics lead into a core of finely knit yet deep fruit in a wine that feels endless. Harvest for the…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Pavie was picked September 21–30 at 31hl/ha and matured in 75% new oak, the rest one year old. It continues to see greater emphasis on Cabernets – 34% Franc and 16% Sauvignon, the Merlot reduced to half the blend. This gradual rejigging of the blend is borne out on the nose, which features…

Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2018 Promontory is as phenomenal as it has always been, but it, too is going through a period of reticence. This dark, brooding Cabernet is packed with character. Time in the glass brings out striking inner perfume and sweetness. There is a feeling of stark minimalism in the 2018 that I find compelling. Constantly…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Promontory is another riveting wine from the Harlan family and winemaker David Cilli. It has been nothing short of spectacular in two recent tastings. “What is a 100-point wine?” I am often asked. Well, it is a wine that is complete, where nothing sticks out, and where all the elements are in perfect…