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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is the strongest wine from the First Growth in that decade. This bottle, served blind and ex-château in Bordeaux, is so precociously backward that I estimate it to be half its age. Blackberry, cedar and graphite are here as usual, though this bottle has even more intensity than the one served at…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso is layered with red cherry, plum, licorice and dried flower notes. There is plenty of energy and tension. It will be interesting to see if the tannins soften a bit. Today, the 2017 is a bit assertive, but that may soften in time. We will see.

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Medium red-ruby. Dark berries, licorice, underbrush and smoky oak on the inviting nose, plus a whiff of leather. Easygoing and sweet, with pliant flavors of black cherry, dark berries and smoky underbrush. Finishes with round, soft tannins and subtle length. Not a gripping style, but very typical Pomerol merlot.

1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)

Highly aromatic but youthfully subdued aromas of peach blossom, fresh pineapple, minerals and spicy oak; offers lovely lift and purity. Smooth, thick and spicy, with lively acidity giving it a light touch. Fruit salad flavors complicated by notes of spice, vanilla and grilled nuts. Finishes suave and long. A very elegantly styled wine with the…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

Taittinger’s 1996 Comtes de Champagne is another highlight. The flavors are only now beginning to show elements of complexity, a great sign for aging. Gently spiced and buttery notes suggest the 1996 is about to enter the early part of its maturity, where it is likely to stay for another decade or so.

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Green-gold. Vibrant, youthful, precise aromas of green apple, Meyer lemon and dusty citrus zest. Racy and taut on the palate, with a strong mousse and impressive focus and concentration to the tangy apple and citrus flavors. Juicy, palate-staining finish of striking purity. This is clearly an outstanding Champagne but needs some more time in bottle.