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Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2018 Monte Bello is ridiculously young. There’s plenty of energy and drive, but writing a note at this point is rather superfluous. Readers should not plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. Early tastings suggest the 2018 is a Monte Bello built on linear, savory intensity more than volume. I very much like the…

Tuscany 2006 and 2007: A New Golden Age (Aug 2009)

The 2006 Tignanello is especially opulent in this vintage. Masses of dark red fruit, scorched earth and sweet oak emerge as this richly-textured Tignanello flows from the glass. The wine possesses superb density; all it needs is another few years to come together. Today it is remarkably vibrant and primary. Tignanello is 85% Sangiovese, 10%…

2013 Barolo: The Late Releases (Oct 2017)

Mario Fontana’s 2013 Barolo is quite a bit more imposing than the Castiglione Falletto bottling. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, licorice, menthol and melted road tar fill out the wine’s super-classic, mid-weight frame. The 2013 has more fruit and better balance, along with less austerity, than most other recent vintages have shown. And that, is of…

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Bright saturated red. Deep, pure aromas of raspberry, licorice and minerals; a whiff of white pepper and aromatic herbs emerges with air. Sweet, dense, chewy and powerful, offering superb depth and nuance to the rich red cherry, licorice and potpourri flavors. Tactile, serious and extremely long on the fine-grained, lifted finish. Yet another great wine from Fuligni, and…

The Pendulum Swings: 2012 Brunello di Montalcino (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is finessed in the glass, perfumed with nuances of violet and rose, as hints of fresh plum and dried sage evolve over time. This floods the palate with textures like pure silk, washing masses of savory red berries and spices across a balanced core of saline-tinged acidity. A tart…

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino gains freshness in the glass, yet it has a rusticity to it that won’t please all palates. Overripe strawberry and plum gives way to moist soil and animal musk. It’s silky in feel, mixing citrus-tinged tart berries and salty minerals with brisk acids. Grippy tannins settle in and hold firm,…