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In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2010 Guado al Tasso comes across as incredibly stern and tannic, with little of the aromatic expressiveness and sheer juiciness of the best years. The warm, resonant Cabernet Franc bouquet and dark fruit are less evident than they are normally. In 2010 the rains were particularly challenging, which means the percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Saturated deep red. Shoe polish, minerals and cassis on the nose, with a hint of toasty oak. Intensely flavored, vibrant fruit shows great middle-palate fullness for a young Lafite. Very long, multidimensional finish of great subtlety. Has the acidity and tannic underpinning for long life. An outstanding, classic Lafite; claret for the millennium. Along with…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

This bottle of 1990 Lafite-Rothschild replicates the one poured at the château several months earlier. The bouquet offers black fruit, a little dustiness, leather and light marine notes, but again, it never slips into fifth gear. It just lacks vivacity. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly hard tannin, modest fruit concentration and a monochromatic finish…

2014 Chianti Classico: Better Late Than Never (Oct 2016)

Petrolo’s flagship Galatrona is a good wine, but it comes across as a bit lean and lacking in depth in 2013. The fruit never has a chance to fully emerge in a wine that remains both compact and abrupt. Both bottles I tasted were disappointing relative to Galatrona’s historical level of quality.

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Giusto di Notri wraps around the palate with gorgeous depth. Round, creamy and deeply expressive, the 2011 offers gorgeous up-front richness and resonance. Dark cherry, plum and spice notes all flesh out on the inviting finish. Today, the tannins are a bit firm, but then again, the wine was only been in bottle…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Saturated deep ruby, much darker and brighter than the other vintages tasted. Sappy, fresh aromas of boysenberry, cassis, minerals, bitter chocolate and espresso, with complicating notes of underbrush and earth. Extremely pure and penetrating, with fruit of steel and a powerful mineral underpinning. Finishes with strong, firm tannins and great persistence. Essence of Ausone, without…