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Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Latour (Mar 2016)

From the moment it is first opened the 1982 Château Latour is magical. Deep and still vibrant in color, but showing the translucence of age, the 1982 opens with intense, soaring aromatics that hint at what is to come. One taste is all it takes to confirm that the first impression is spot-on. This bottle,…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Full ruby-red. Brooding aromas of raw currant, leather and menthol; a bit Hermitage-like on the nose. Then quite backward for the vintage, even a bit youthfully tough. Flavors of raw currant, leather, tobacco and roasted herbs. This has terrific backbone for aging and comes across as distinctly firmer than La Mouline or La Turque.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation,…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1982 Latour has always been a quintessential Bordeaux and a quintessential Latour. This is just as composed and detailed as the finest bottles that I have encountered, bridled with captivating blackberry, graphite and cedar aromas that are brilliantly focused. Perhaps it is not quite as showy as it was a few years ago, yet…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Latour is the most consistent of the First Growths in this auspicious vintage. Tasted from both bottle and magnum in the UK in recent months, this note comes from an ex-château magnum tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux. It exudes class and majesty on the nose with its copious but brilliantly focused…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Climens has a well-defined, complex bouquet of dried honey, peach skin, quince and a light beeswax scent. Tight at first, it only takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. The palate is where the action is: very intense and concentrated with layers of botrytized fruit, lightly spiced with tangy marmalade,…