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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation,…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1982 Latour has always been a quintessential Bordeaux and a quintessential Latour. This is just as composed and detailed as the finest bottles that I have encountered, bridled with captivating blackberry, graphite and cedar aromas that are brilliantly focused. Perhaps it is not quite as showy as it was a few years ago, yet…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Latour is the most consistent of the First Growths in this auspicious vintage. Tasted from both bottle and magnum in the UK in recent months, this note comes from an ex-château magnum tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux. It exudes class and majesty on the nose with its copious but brilliantly focused…

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 2000 Ausone was tasted on no less than three occasions during March 2015, once with Pauline and Alain Vauthier. It is a great millennial Saint-Émilion with intense blackberry and cassis fruit laced with cedar and violets. Less opulent than it showed in its youth, it is a perfect marriage of Merlot and Cabernet Franc….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Bright ruby-red. Profound nose melds raspberry, black cherry, mocha and minerals. Wonderfully silky and spherical, with monumental solidity and yet incredible inner-mouth perfume. This builds and builds toward the back, finishing with big but suave tannins and extraordinary minerally length. One of the two or three greatest wines I tasted on my spring trip to…

A Splendid 2015 Vintage in South Africa—Time To Discover Swartland’s Wines (May 2017)

(from a single vineyard on soil rich in sandstone): Bright dark red. Scented aromas of raspberry, lavender, tree bark, pepper and spices; I would have guessed that this contained some Mourvèdre. At once brambly and a bit high-toned in the mouth, offering a very suave grain and lovely inner-mouth floral/peppery lift to its raspberry and…