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Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino kicks off our last flight, and appropriately so. What a wine. Explosive, perfumed and layered, with staggering depth, the 2001 is unquestionably one of the most profound wines Gianfranco Soldera ever made. An exotic mélange of dark-toned fruit, lavender, sage and menthol gradually opens. The 2001 constantly changes in the…

Vinous Table: Tuscan Dinner @ 67 Pall Mall, London, UK (May 2023)

I am fortunate to taste many of the world’s most iconic wines, but Soldera is a producer with whom I have scant experience. The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva from Soldera is blessed with a heart-stopping nose as if the aromas wrap their loving arms around your senses, so warm and inviting with its disarming…

In the Sweet Spot: 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Mar 2021)

The bouquet in the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is both sweet and savory, showing masses of ripe cherries laced with autumnal spice, as a mix of sage and hints of rosemary develop. With a bit more time in the glass, a balsamic note keeps me coming back for more. It’s zesty, with brisk acidity front…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Les Forts de Latour has a light minty bouquet, more red than black fruit, touches of orange peel and light pencil shaving scents. The palate is medium-bodied with good density, fine tannins, becoming increasingly precise towards the finish, graphite and black pepper lingering on the aftertaste. Wonderful breeding here, a step ahead of…

Vinous Table: The Ledbury, London, UK (Mar 2023)

The third in the trio ended a long-running saga that stretches back to the early days of my career. I have encountered the 1971 La Tâche Grand Cru on four occasions, and the bottle has either been corked or out of sorts each time. This reached its zenith at a vertical tasting/dinner where Aubert de…

A Birthday Dinner at Momofuku Ko, New York (May 2016)

Another of the many highlights of night, the 1971 La Tâche is sensational. Vivid, alive and totally electric in the glass, the 1971 dazzles from start to finish with seemingly endless layers of sweet fruit and captivating aromatics. This is an especially moving bottle. The only better bottles I have had have been large formats.