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Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Aux Boudots opens with an intensely spiced bouquet. It boasts considerable energy, with masses of fruit ripping at the seams. The Boudots is a wine of gorgeous contrasts. It is at once fleshy, yet weightless, in the way only Pinot Noir is capable of. Endless layers of aromas and flavors…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

(a blend from the second harvest of the estate’s various vineyards; Villaine noted that the ’99 version of this wine did not include the second harvest from Romanee-Conti) Good full red. Fruit-driven aromas of plum and spice. Perfumed and sweet in the mouth, with an enticing spiciness but without quite the fine grain and density…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

(a blend from the second harvest of the estate’s various vineyards; Villaine noted that the ’99 version of this wine did not include the second harvest from Romanee-Conti) Good full red. Fruit-driven aromas of plum and spice. Perfumed and sweet in the mouth, with an enticing spiciness but without quite the fine grain and density…

Life Is Funny Like That: 1999 & 2015 DRC (Apr 2018)

The 1999 Vosne-Romané 1er Cru Duvault-Blochet, the debut release in the modern era, was beginning to show some signs of bricking on the rim. The bouquet is a treat: decayed red berry fruit, sage and peppermint, just a soupçon of wild fennel all at the liminal point as primary tips into secondary aromas. The palate…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

(a blend made from the second pass through the estate older vines; in ’99 this was too good to sell to the negoces, according to de Villaine) Medium red. Sappy aromas of redcurrant, blackberry, plum, spices and chocolate. Juicy, minerally and fresh, with good body and lovely cut. Sweet oak adds complexity. Finishes fresh and…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

I was blown away by the 2005 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru because though I have tasted it two or three times, never could I envisage that it would reach this level. It has laser-like precision on the nose with more blue fruit than I remember, so much mineralité, as if someone had just ground limestone directly…