Archives: Product Reviews

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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Fresh ruby-red color. Black raspberry, mocha, smoky spices and earth on the rather discreet nose. Sweet but high-pitched, communicating an impression of more youthful fruit than the Echezeaux. This boasts terrific lift and aromatic intensity in the mouth but is quite backward today. Finishes extremely long, with nicely integrated tannins and excellent verve. I love…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2005 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is a wine I have not encountered since just after bottling. It has a fabulous bouquet, so pure and complex, its mineralité riveting you to the spot. Crystalline. The palate has a divine balance with immense poise, which is uncommon in this muscular vintage. The tannins seem to have melted…

Annual Coverage of California’s North Coast (May 2013)

(75% cabernet sauvignon, 16% merlot and 9% cabernet franc; the harvest here ended on October 13, about two weeks later than usual): Brilliant ruby-red. Urgent aromas of crushed boysenberry, wild herbs, licorice and spearmint are complemented by sexy oak tones. Densely packed and electric, with great energy to the highly concentrated, pliant flavors of black…

2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Terroir Matters – Updated (Nov 2013)

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon bursts from the glass with an exotic combination of pure power and intensity. Plums, mocha, lavender, espresso, licorice and new leather all blossom in a brooding, imposing wine that is going to require quite a bit of patience. This is another huge, dark Screaming Eagle. Plums, smoke, licorice and melted road…

Annual Coverage of California’s North Coast (May 2013)

(75% cabernet sauvignon, 16% merlot and 9% cabernet franc; the harvest here ended on October 13, about two weeks later than usual): Brilliant ruby-red. Urgent aromas of crushed boysenberry, wild herbs, licorice and spearmint are complemented by sexy oak tones. Densely packed and electric, with great energy to the highly concentrated, pliant flavors of black…

2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Terroir Matters – Updated (Nov 2013)

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon bursts from the glass with an exotic combination of pure power and intensity. Plums, mocha, lavender, espresso, licorice and new leather all blossom in a brooding, imposing wine that is going to require quite a bit of patience. This is another huge, dark Screaming Eagle. Plums, smoke, licorice and melted road…