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1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Expressive, oaky aromas of smoke and resin, with a toasty aspect. Quite dry but textured in the mouth, with lively honey and lemon flavors. Firm and persistent; seems a bit more convincing on the back end than the ’97. More focused then it was last year just after the bottling.

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Vivid gold. Complex aromas of melon, fig, beeswax and jasmine. Dense and lush, with good concentration and extract to its ripe pit fruit and honeydew flavors. Finishes smoky and broad, with lingering fig and floral notes and impressive length.

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Full ruby. A roomfilling bouquet of fresh red and dark berry scents, along with smoked meat, violet, incense and minerals. Wonderfully fresh in the mouth, with vibrant raspberry and black cherry flavors. Gentle tannins rein in the expansive fruit without standing in its way. The finish is all about fruit, with late-arriving notes of black…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Bright ruby-red. High-toned aromas of dark fruits, pepper, spice and mint. Tightly wound and brisk; evolving very slowly and showing limited texture today. Tannins are quite firm, even a bit tough, but the finish offers lovely aromatic interest.

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Bright ruby. Heady bouquet of spiced red berries, kirsch, fresh flowers, Indian spices and minerals. A sweet, palate-staining midweight, with luscious raspberry and blueberry flavors, sneaky tannic grip and slow-building cherry-cola on the close. I love the texture and focus here.

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

(bottled in September) Vibrant fruit aromas complicated by a note of butterscotch. Complex flavors of candied fruits and lemon; quite discreet today but with a distinct aspect of surmaturite Manages to wear its 14.5% alcohol fairly gracefully. Still, this rather backward wine is a bit warm on the back end.