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The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Bellevue Mondotte was picked on 3 October, the same as Pavie-Decesse and in fact Gérard Perse told me that it just took half a day! It has a very pure and seductive bouquet with precocious black cherries and blueberry aromas, vanilla and crushed violets/peony. There is a tad more complexity than the Pavie-Decesse….

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Lemon zest, orange oil and crushed stone on the nose, with strong calcaire pungency. Densely packed, fine-grained and pliant, showing lovely subtle sweetness to its intense flavors of lemon, lime and crushed stone. This very deep, sappy wine possesses the stuffing and extract to make its alcohol virtually disappear. Very long and…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has quite a precocious bouquet of ample white peach, citrus lemon, smoke and flint aromas that gather momentum in the glass. The palate is saline on the entry. There is fine depth here, and good tension, if not quite the complexity and precision of its peers on the finish. A…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is one of the more restrained, understated versions of this wine I can remember tasting. Medium in body (in relative terms) and beautifully persistent, the 2014 makes its case more with a total sense of harmony rather than with bombastic power, as is sometimes the case. Moreover, the 2014…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

This 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has a curious menthol-tinged bouquet offering plenty of fruit concentration to the mixture of red cherries, blueberry and cassis. Very opulent; maybe too much. The palate is sweet and candied, and there is quite a lot of new oak here and a lot of extraction. Powerful and virile, though de…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Ausone was bottled in June 2019. It is blessed with one of the most cerebral bouquets that you will find in this vintage. Nuanced scents of violet and wild heather percolate through the blueberry and cassis fruit. Like the aromatics, the palate is almost pixelated in terms of detail. Cashmere tannins, perfectly integrated…