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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Ausone is incredibly precise and sculpted, but also tightly wound in the early going – not that that will be a problem for readers who own it and will cellar it. Wild flowers, mint, blood orange and crushed rocks are some of the nuances that open up in the glass, but the 2017…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Ausone was picked September 20-27 for the Merlot and October 3, 5 and 7 for the Cabernet Franc, then matured for 20 months in new French oak with light toasting. This is very refined and focused on the nose, less opulent compared to recent vintages, and very sophisticated, with hints of Montecristo cigar…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Ausone is a deep, statuesque Saint-Émilion that is at the beginning of what will surely be a very long, long life. Its vertical energy, stunning aromatics and persistence are all things of beauty, but it is the balance here that is so captivating. The acids and tannins are at once searing in their…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Richebourg Grand Cru has a beautiful bouquet, very succinct and understated for a Richebourg and oh so precise. The palate is medium-bodied with strict tannin, a pinch of black pepper and bay leaf, and much more vibrant toward the finely structured finish. This is masculine and introspective, a Richebourg that will require considerable…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Ausone has a perfumed nose with another Cabernet Franc-driven set of aromas, gravel and loam infusing the black fruit. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a beautifully sculpted wine with a killer line of acidity and immense precision on the finish. This just sashays along with style. Fabulous. Tasted blind…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Musigny Grand Cru contains 40% whole bunch. It has a beguiling bouquet of haunting delineation, featuring very pure black fruit mixed with truffle and light Earl Grey aromas. The palate is exquisitely balanced, hints of allspice and clove infusing the black fruit. A touch of dark chocolate emerges toward the very persistent finish,…