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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Beychevelle was perplexing from barrel. Re-tasting it three or four times, I discerned a faint but nagging vegetal note on the finish, though it was not evident on a bottle subsequently tasted at the property, which governed my banded score. Returning to Bordeaux to taste the wines that had been bottled in June…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Beychevelle is the one wine that I vowed to re-taste at the château since I found three samples tasting in the UK vexing because of a green taint on the finish. Here, the nose performs well: pure blackberry and crushed violet, none of those incongruous “mulch” or “vegetal” scents that I noticed before….

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

This Saint-Julien estate has produced wonderful wines from their new winery in recent years under head winemaker, the congenial Philippe Blanc. But my job is to tell it like it is and the truth is that all three bottles of the 2020 Beychevelle tasted from different sources, including one directly from the château and with…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a detailed nose with citrus fruit and flint aromas unfolding in the glass. This has a “steady” feel to it, aromatics that don’t wish to create too much of a fuss. The palate is balanced with good weight, fine acidity, quite saline but like other Perrieres, it…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a well-defined, tightly-packed bouquet that demanded some coaxing from the glass. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, maybe just a bit too straightforward on the mid-palate but with a pleasant waxy-textured finish. Drink over the next 12-15 years.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Bellevue Mondotte is a full-throttle, exotic Saint-Émilion. Inky dark fruit, gravel, spice, mint, lavender, bittersweet chocolate and black pepper are some of the many aromas and flavors that open as this extravagantly ripe Saint-Émilion shows off its allure. Sumptuous and racy, with firm tannins underpinning it all, the 2018 dazzles right out of…