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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation,…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1982 Latour has always been a quintessential Bordeaux and a quintessential Latour. This is just as composed and detailed as the finest bottles that I have encountered, bridled with captivating blackberry, graphite and cedar aromas that are brilliantly focused. Perhaps it is not quite as showy as it was a few years ago, yet…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 2000 Petrus was served blind as an extra in an already formidable line-up. Deep, inky in hue, it has an intense nose of black and red fruit laced with pencil shavings and black truffle, the latter more prominently featured vis-à-vis previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied, one of the most youthful examples that I…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

($1; 400) Bright ruby-red. Knockout nose combines mulberry, raspberry liqueur, toffee, iron and minerals. Silky and thick on entry, then extremely dense and backward in the middle palate, with superripe notes of liqueur, game and truffle. A remarkably impressive, rather wild Petrus in an almost late-harvest style. Finishes with big, thoroughly ripe tannins and gamey…

Cellar Favorites: Château Latour – New Releases (Jul 2016)

The 2000 Latour is an attractive wine, although I would have like to see a little more freshness, especially in the aromatics, for such a young Grand Vin. Round, creamy tannins give the 2000 much of its seamless, open-knit personality. Spice, leather, dark cherry and plum take on exotic shades of expression. With time in…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full medium ruby. Wonderfully sweet, rich aromas of cassis, minerals and bitter chocolate. A huge wine with almost painful intensity; solid as a rock and at the same time utterly sensual and creamy, with great inner-mouth complexity and depth of flavor and a complete absence of rough edges. Almost too easy today, says Engerer. Sweet…