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The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

The 2011 Batard-Montrachet comes across as quite soft in this vintage. Hints of lime, ginger, honey, apricots and white flowers develop as the wine opens up, but I don’t quite see the pure depth or intensity of the very best years. Batard is usually a powerful wine, but there isn’t much of that here. I…

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

The 2011 Batard-Montrachet comes across as quite soft in this vintage. Hints of lime, ginger, honey, apricots and white flowers develop as the wine opens up, but I don’t quite see the pure depth or intensity of the very best years. Batard is usually a powerful wine, but there isn’t much of that here. I…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

Light gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon pith, quince and green apple, with complicating notes of smoky minerals and chamomile. Dry, nervy and very tight, with slow-to-open citrus and orchard fruit flavors and complicating notes of white pepper and buttered toast. Boasts excellent intensity and clarity but shuts down hard on the finish, which features strong…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2002 Dom Pérignon is unforgettable. Rich, sumptuous and flamboyant to the core, the 2002 captures all of the radiance of a year in which ripeness in the Chardonnays was pushed to the edge. The 2002 is oily and viscous on the palate, with tremendous textural resonance in all of its dimensions. Tropical fruit, pastry…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

A bold, dramatic wine, the 2017 Cos d'Estournel is seriously impressive today. Time in barrel has done wonders for the 2017, a wine that has really gained depth in élevage. Black cherry, chocolate, spice, new leather, licorice, smoke and incense infuse the 2017 with tons of character, with the 60% new oak very well judged….